26 Feb Pyay: Payas, pilgrims and Pyu civilisation ruins

Written by Matt Roebuck Published in Travel & Tourism Read 15037 times

Unlike the ‘Road to Mandalay’ the ‘Road to Pyay’ or Prome as it was known, is less well travelled by those on the tourist trail.

For those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Yangon, stupa-studded Pyay – on the Ayeyarwady River about 177 miles (245km) by road from the commercial capital – is big enough for an interesting weekend getaway, yet small enough to make it an easy destination to unwind.

The hilltop Shwesandaw Pagoda, which is about a yard higher than Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda, is one of the nation’s most revered pilgrimage destinations. It affords panoramic views of 64 smaller pagodas throughout the city and is a perfect vantage point to watch the sun rising over a huge seated Buddha image nearby. Because of its height the image is known as the Sehtagyi Paya, which means “big ten-storey”.

For even older religiosity, about five miles (eight kilometres) outside Pyay are the ruins of the ancient Pyu civilisation city of Sri Ksetra, which means “City of Splendour” in Sanskrit and is known in Myanmar as Thayekhittaya. This archeological site covering about 5.5 square miles features three stupas that in June last year became the first sites in Myanmar to be added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, as the “Pyu Ancient Cities”.

Sri Ksetra peaked in importance between the 5th and 9th centuries but the site has fewer pagodas than the temple-studded plain at Bagan. It’s possible to hire bicycles to explore the site, although the sandy, bumpy roads make pedalling hard work. A tuk-tuk hired from Pyay to tour the site costs about K15,000 and the first stop will be at the information centre to buy your K5,000 entry ticket. You also have the option of visiting the Sri Ksetra Museum for an extra K5,000.

Beyond the ancient sites, Pyay affords a number of opportunities to relax, soak in a little street culture or simply sit and watch the world go by. The night market bustles with activity but is noticeably quieter than those in Yangon, with much less honking of horns.

The nearby riverfront is comparatively clean and a pleasant place for an enjoyable stroll. Walking through the riverside park and taking time out at one of the teashops while enjoying the breeze off the Ayeryarwady is a thoroughly recommended way to relax for an hour or two.

Nearby excursions

Akauk Taung or Customs Hill Buddha images, carved into a cliff on the Ayeryarwady. Shwe Myet Man Paya (Buddha with Golden Spectacles Pagoda), at Shwedaung, about 8 miles (14km) south of Pyay.

Getting there

A bus to Pyay from Yangon takes six to seven hours and costs K5,000.

A more leisurely way to travel to Pyay from Yangon is on a state-owned Inland Waterways Transport ferry, which takes about two days.

Where to stay

The Myat Lodging House and Pangabar guest house provide clean accommodation for under $10 a person.

More upmarket options in Pyay include the Lucky Dragon and Pyay Strand hotels and the Smile Motel.

This Article first appeared in the February 19, 2015 edition of Mizzima Weekly.

Mizzima Weekly is available in print in Yangon through Innwa Bookstore and through online subscription at www.mzineplus.com 

Last modified on Thursday, 26 February 2015 16:23